Heritage meets innovation as designers reimagine Malaysia’s traditional attire for modern appeal 

by SUFEA SALEHUDDIN 

AS TRADITIONAL fashion evolves, designers are breathing new life into heritage garments like the baju kurung, kebaya and batik, blending timeless elements with contemporary flair. 

This fusion has sparked excitement and debate, with some applauding the innovation, while others worry it risks diluting cultural identity. 

With the rapid shift of trends, a question arises: How far can we modernise traditional attire without losing its essence? 

In just five years since launching his label, Kel Wen, the founder of Malaysian fashion brand Behati, has navigated controversies surrounding his bold reimagining of traditional attire. 

Driven by a desire to let heritage fashion keep up with time and attract the next generations, Wen’s designs have sparked acclaim and criticism. 

His oversized version of the baju melayu, introduced in 2018, challenged cultural conventions, with some applauding the fresh approach while others argued it bordered on disrespect. 

For Wen, modernising traditional fashion starts with a deep respect for each garment’s cultural essence and original purpose. 

When reinterpreting traditional pieces, Wen emphasised the importance of preserving defining elements, such as the delicate embroidery that adorns the kebaya or the modesty inherent in the baju kurung’s design. 

From this foundation, Wen brings in innovative elements to adapt the garment’s silhouette, fit and style, ensuring each design remains fresh, functional and recognisable. 

Wen recognises that some may view his work as ‘breaking traditional rules’ (Pic courtesy of Kel Wen)

Each collection’s theme determines the traditional garment to be reinvented by Wen, allowing him to explore various cultural motifs while retaining signature features that honour the garment’s heritage. 

The result is a harmonious blend of traditional aesthetics with modern sensibilities, producing garments that resonate with contemporary wearers while embodying cultural respect. 

Staying relevant in fashion means keeping an eye on global trends without losing authenticity. 

“I have always kept myself updated with what happens during international fashion weeks since college,” he told The Malaysian Reserve (TMR). 

His passion for learning about global trends and styles, from major brands to upcoming designers, helps him to understand what people want in their wardrobes. 

Yet, Wen believed that the unique blend of cultural influences within Malaysia offers limitless possibilities, giving designers the freedom to create a distinctive Malaysian aesthetic. 

“The best part about the Malaysian aesthetic is the mixture that we have within our society, which allows artists like myself to explore new possibilities in defining it,” he said. 

For Wen, fashion represents more than style: It is a reflection of Malaysia’s multicultural landscape, a tapestry he hopes to connect through his designs. 

However, balancing cultural respect with the innovation needed to stay relevant in modern fashion presents its own set of challenges. 

Wen acknowledged that introducing fresh perspectives to deeply rooted cultural symbols often leads to mixed reactions and occasional criticism. 

“When I apply innovative ideas to traditional culture, I always make sure I do enough research to avoid disrespecting any culture,” he said. 

For him, staying informed and mindful is key to navigating the fine line between innovation and reverence. 

Despite his careful approach, Wen recognised that some may view his work as “breaking traditional rules.” 

Nevertheless, he sees tradition not as a rigid framework but as a living, evolving source of inspiration. 

“To me, traditions are not meant to be followed like a rule book. Instead, we should allow ourselves to be inspired by them and live in them creatively, as change is the only way to move culture forward,” he added. 

Furthermore, as a designer redefining traditional fashion, Wen believes in the responsibility of innovators to preserve cultural heritage while pushing boundaries. 

“The role of a designer is to innovate creation. Innovation usually has to break certain boundaries or traditions while maintaining its main design objective or traditional technique,” he explained. 

While Wen considers he must introduce new styles that celebrate Malaysia’s cultural roots, he realises that it is ultimately the consumers who decide whether these styles are accepted and embraced into their lives.

Designer sisters Farah Hani and Tati Hani of the Hani Mokhta label shared similar sentiments as they work to modernise traditional garments like the baju kurung and kebaya for contemporary wearers. 

For them, balancing tradition with innovation is key to meeting the needs of their community, particularly modern women who seek versatility in their attire. 

“At Hani Mokhta, putting together creations that best fit the lives and personalities of our community means these pieces need to be versatile enough to be worn traditionally, formally, and casually while complementing the modern setting and sensibilities of today’s women,” they explained. 

Yet, they recognise the urgency of preserving the garment’s essence while incorporating innovative twists to resonate with fashion-forward audiences. 

Mokhta sisters are on a mission to make traditional (Pic courtesy of Farah Hani and Tati Hani)

Each piece in Hani Mokhta’s collections is a homage to Malaysia’s heritage, blending cultural elements, modern trends and advanced textile production.

Farah and Tati described their approach as creative and calculated, especially when working with iconic garments like the kebaya. 

They see each Hani Mokhta creation as an opportunity to explore and experiment, describing the fusion of traditional and modern styles as a way to “open up new conversations, paving the way for a more inclusive view of fashion.”

When addressing critics who feel that modernising traditional garments dilutes their significance, the sisters emphasised they see fashion as an evolving dialogue between past and present. “Fashion design is another form of art, and we designers are always looking for opportunities to play with fabrics, prints and embellishments,” they shared, viewing each design as a chance to connect cultural heritage with modern expression.

They aim to reach younger generations who view fashion as a core part of identity and traditionalists who appreciate familiar silhouettes but seek fresh updates to these classic designs. 

This commitment to bridging generations is woven into Hani Mokhta’s creative DNA, as Farah and Tati craft garments that balance bold patterns, rich textures and vibrant colours with a respect for heritage. 

For these designers, modernising traditional attire is about creating a shared cultural experience that allows individuals from all backgrounds to connect with Malaysia’s history while expressing their unique style. 

With this mission in mind, the sisters ensure their ready-to-wear collections not only follow trends but also set new standards in modernising cultural attire. 

Growing up in an environment where their grandmothers wore traditional garments daily, Farah and Tati held a deep reverence for the baju kurung Kedah, batik skirts and other classic styles that filled their family’s wardrobes. 

“These garments are a celebration of history and cultures — ours and as a whole,” they expressed. 

Inspired by the strength, confidence and uniqueness of the women around them, their designs are crafted to reflect and complement the essence of contemporary women. 

Their approach to versatility has always been at the forefront of each Hani Mokhta creation, ensuring the designs can transition effortlessly between formal and casual settings. 

By incorporating natural fibres like viscose and linen ideal for Malaysia’s tropical climate, they create pieces that women can seamlessly integrate into their daily lives. 

The Mokhta sisters are on a mission to make traditional wear more than a formal staple — transforming it into a wardrobe essential that carries the spirit of Malaysia’s heritage into the everyday lives of modern women. 

Adding depth to the discussion, City University Fashion Design lecturer Farisah Natasha Fajim Juffa shared her perspective on the complexities of modernising traditional attire. 

For her, traditional garments like the baju kurung and kebaya carry a cultural weight that demands respect. 

“Modernisation should enhance the garment’s essence rather than overshadow it. The line is drawn when innovation dilutes the meaning, replacing cultural symbols with trendy but hollow interpretations,” she told TMR. 

Farisah believes that the core identity of each piece must remain intact and recognisable (Pic courtesy of Farisah Natasha Fajim Juffa)

While acknowledging that aesthetics will naturally evolve, Farisah believes that the core identity of each piece must remain intact and recognisable. 

Striking this balance, she said, is essential to ensuring that cultural heritage is not lost in the name of innovation but rather celebrated and preserved in a way that resonates with modern audiences. 

As an educator, Farisah is dedicated to instilling these values in her students. For her, this means embedding ethical considerations into the design process, such as understanding a garment’s history, its role in community identity, and the sensitivity required when modernising it. 

“I encourage my students to uphold ethical practices, to represent cultures respectfully and avoid appropriation, nurturing a generation of designers who value tradition just as much as innovation,” she added. 

In fashion education, equipping students to thoughtfully engage with the vaying perspectives on modernising traditional attire is essential. 

“This requires sensitivity to both progressive and conservative views,” she noted. 

By fostering open discussions, Farisah lets her students navigate these tensions, guiding them toward designs that respect tradition while embracing fresh, innovative elements. 

She added that fashion education should also instil critical thinking to help students understand the cultural significance behind these garments. 

Moreover, social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok are integral to today’s fashion industry, offering designers and brands unprecedented reach. 

With vibrant photos, videos and interactive content, social media has made traditional attire and cultural garments more visible and accessible than ever, drawing attention to unique styles and sparking curiosity about their origins and meanings. 

However, as Farisah pointed out, this visibility can also come with risks. 

“Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have the power to preserve and trivialise cultural identity,” she said. 

On one hand, social media can amplify traditional attire, promoting it as something beautiful and meaningful and on the other, it risks reducing culturally rich garments to fleeting trends devoid of their original significance. 

For Farisah, social media is a powerful tool that, when used thoughtfully, can foster genuine conversations about cultural heritage and significance. 

However, if treated superficially, it can strip these garments of their depth, turning them into empty fashion statements in the fast-paced digital landscape. 

• This article first appeared in The Malaysian Reserve weekly print edition